Hiking the mountains, forests and villages of northern Myanmar
By Will Weber, JOURNEYS Director

January is the ideal month to explore the northern most valleys of Burma, one of the least visited regions of the Himalayas. Rich with birdlife and friendly cultures we walked through towering forests and along crystal clear streams and did not encounter any other foreign travelers.

A Quick Stop in Yangon
This was my fourth visit to Burma so I had some sense of what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised by what we found upon arrival in Yangon.  There is a new airport with efficient immigration and customs. Changing money was easy. Everyone was predictably courteous. Nothing about this government encounter seems evil or authoritarian.  Yangon has moderate traffic, but the city is clean. The ride to Kandawgyi Palace Hotel was entertaining for the passing display of ancient and modern buildings, vehicles and lifestyles.  We spent two nights here on arrival with sightseeing to several markets, the riverfront and the great Shwedagon Pagoda. This enormous golden Buddhist stupa is the most sacred (and most valuable) Buddhist site in Myanmar. Every visitor should spend a couple of hours here, preferably around sunset and if possible on the night of a full moon when thousands of lamps are lit. It is a photographer’s delight. In contrast to many countries, most people in Myanmar are pleased and flattered to have their picture taken and never ask for money.  At Shwedagon, among the many pilgrims, we observed a monk meditating by looking directly at the setting sun.

Elsewhere we visited a new, spacious, open and clean vegetable market inviting not only pictures, but conversations about the nature and origins of the many produce items for sale.

Flight hopping to Putao
Our destination was the northern most tip of Myanmar accessible by a long, two stop flight via Mandalay and Myitkina.  The ATR-72 turboprop aircraft of Air Bagan was smooth and comfortable. We flew low enough to  observe the landscapes below.  The farther north we flew the more extensive the forest became and the clearer the streams.  There are only about four flights per week to Putao and the good weather season is from October to April. Road access is possible in the dry season but the roads are rough and tortuous. The lack of traffic and modern buildings gave Putao a friendly village feeling.The Putao Trekking House (left) where we stayed for three nights was an especially comfortable and hospitable base. Built according to local architectural style, but from beautiful local hardwoods, a generator supplements limited local electrical supply. Rooms have comfortable bedding and there are attached,  Western style bathroom facilities. It was a last chance to charge camera batteries. We enjoyed a local culture show in the  spacious bar, dining and meeting hall cum arts and crafts museum.  The meals at Putao Trekking House are superb. The landscaped grounds may be a good place to start your bird list.  It is an easy walk to to the local morning market and there are bicycles available for excursions farther afield.

We left early the next morning by 4×4 for 20 km trip to the trailhead for our trek. I was surprised to travel through extensive native grassland plains, a very rare habitat in this part of Asia, where most level land is claimed for agriculture.  At several river crossings we all had to get out and walk across the creaky bridges. The rivers they spanned were crystal clear.  At the point where the road became a path we started walking. Our group of five  had a support staff of 15 including a guide, cook, guide and cook assistants and local porters. This area is so remote almost no one speaks Burmese, let alone English.  But people along the way in fields, houses and on the trail were as curious about us as we were about them.  Smiles, gestures and sharing the digital images in our camera view finders all helped to create multi-media conversations.  While English is a subject taught in the schools, we happened to meet a high school English teacher in Putao and it was extremely difficult to communicate with him without the assistance of our guide-translator.

The first day of our trek was the most difficult as we ascended a steep track over Mt  Shangaung (4500’), a climb of over 3,000’. We all made it up and over and our reward was a more gentle down slope through beautiful broad leaved evergreen forest eventually arriving at Namro River and our night stop at Wasandum, a Rawan Village.  A few homes set among rice terraces were our neighbors for the night as we shared the second level floor of the village guest house.  We enjoyed a fire built in  a square fire pit inset in the floor of the house. Off in the distance were heard the congregants singing in the village church.

Our second day of trekking, by comparison was almost level as we hiked up the Namlang River Valley to to Ziyadam.  The weather was clear and cool and the snowy Himalayan peaks came into view.  There was no haze in the air and the  river was so clear we could see the fish swimming. We passed a house preparing for a wedding and the families already gathered willingly posed for pictures.  We were invited to the ceremony, but still had about 9 kilometers of hiking to complete that day. I was impressed that some villagers along the way had constructed miniature hydro electricity installation that supplied enough power for basic lighting and a radio or cooking appliance.  Even though there was little about the architecture, agriculture or local lifestyle that identified the century we were in, a very simple, fragile, part-time electrical connection seemed to give people a great sense of pride and increased well-being.  This far beyond roads, most of the bridges were made of bamboo and saplings.  The water level in the streams was quite low so we had no problem  crossing the simple structures. It was evident that as the water levels rise May and June, this trail and access to these villages would be much more of a hiking challenge.

Several of us were alert for the different species of birds we observed along the trail. On this day we counted Ibisbill, Brown Dipper, Black Eagle, Northern Lapwing, Indian Cormorant,  Blue-eared Kingfisher, Great Hornbill (at left), Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Yellow-bellied Fantail and Collared Scops Owl among our observations.

Arrival at Ziyadam
We finally arrived at the guest house at Ziyadam, the last village in this valley before the trail ends and the steep mountain slopes begin.  It is still at least a three day walk from here  to reach the glaciers which look like they are just a couple of miles away.  We enjoyed the environs of Ziyadam which offered great views, a variety of natural environments to explore and friendly local people.  We spent two days here and might have enjoyed another. The community organized a simple cultural show welcome and we were invited to join the long snake dance as dusk fell. Our host was a local hunter who led us on a nature hike which tested out fitness and ability to squirm and wiggle through passageways he cut through the brush and bamboo. We did not see any significant wildlife, but gibbons called from the deep forest above us.

While on the trek we enjoyed excellent and ample meals. A peek in the kitchen revealed that our cook accomplished his magic over a single stove.  His cooking was not only tasty and nutritious, but none of our party suffered any kind of digestive distress and there was always enough for second helpings.  In general, I was impressed by the general attention villages gave to sanitation and public health, in contrast to many remote villages I  have visited in Nepal, India and China.  In this poor region there are few resources for education, medical care or public services, yet the villages were neat and clean.  Village headmen we met had some medical training and most children were attending school, though the schools had scant facilities and teachers had little training.

Sad to Leave
We left many of our extra medicines behind with a headman whom we were confident could utilize them wisely.  Our host operator Journeys Nature and Culture Explorations, supports a number of orphans in school and has contributed significantly to village income by hiring people to help accommodate groups like ours. I realize many people feel that it is not politically correct to visit Burma, but it was evident to all of us that our group was supplying information, medicine, clothing, training and income to poor, but motivated people who receive no services from their government. This dynamic of willing traveler donors interacting and supporting highly appreciative local villagers gave everyone a good feeling and a sense that this kind of  tourism is a most satisfying form of efficiently-delivered and highly-targeted foreign aid. Our own government tries to make it difficult for the autocratic rulers of Myanmar by discouraging tourism, denying visas and penalizing American businesses who try to operate in Myanmar. As individual ambassadors of goodwill, travelers can slip through this political and institutional boycott and deliver meaningful assistance to the poorest and most deserving people of Burma.

If you travel to remote areas of Burma think about leaving things like clothing, school supplies, children’s books, tooth brushes, OTC medicines and insect repellent behind as gifts for local people.

Thanks to our hardy and fit group members from left- Jennifer Lanaway, Peter Ostlind,  Kishan Chetry (our host), Paul Sively, Ole Lorenzetti. Prior to our trek they were enjoying breakfast at Putao Trekking House.

Ann Arbor, MI – November 2, 2010 — Building on more than 25 years of nature and culture oriented travel in Costa Rica with kids, students, adults and nature lovers, tour operator JOURNEYS International is partnering with a Costa Rican family-owned jungle resort to provide a unique seven-day adventure camp and exploration experience. Your family’s Costa Rica with Kids adventure vacation will feature visiting local schools, hiking in the rain forest, viewing a volcano, activities in butterfly and frog sanctuaries, activities with local children, swimming, horseback riding and white water rafting in lush tropical environments.

The Costa Rica with Kids Family vacations are scheduled as multi-generation, group trips from June 18-24 and Jun 25-Jul 1, 2011. Extensions to visit sea turtle nesting areas, tropical beaches and other Costa Rica national parks and wildlife sanctuaries are available.

JOURNEYS can also help you visit Costa Rica with kids on a private family vacation at any time of year customized to your personal family travel interests and dates. Family and multi-generation trips are scheduled for Christmas and Spring break school vacation periods

JOURNEYS also offers family adventure travel vacations and other trekking, safari and photo trips in 50 other destinations in Asia, Europe, Africa, the Americas and Australia.

About JOURNEYS International:
JOURNEYS International of Ann Arbor, Michigan, was recently chosen by National Geographic Traveler magazine as one of Ten “Best Outfitters on Earth.” Condé Nast has named director Joan Weber as Top Travel Specialist for family travel every year since 2002. JOURNEYS International has specialized in ecotourism since 1978. JOURNEYS mission is to offer the best nature tours, safaris, treks, adventure travel, family and cultural trips on earth. Whether it is called an eco vacation, adventure travel, ecotravel, ecotour, sustainable travel or responsible travel, for nearly 30 years JOURNEYS has been creating ecologically sensitive and culturally responsible travel to exotic destinations around the world. Specialty ecotrips include women’s tours, Kilimanjaro climbs, exploration cruises, festival trips, student group trips and cross cultural and wildlife safaris. For more information about this trip or other JOURNEYS trips, visit http://www.journeys.travel or contact JOURNEYS at 800-255-8735.
Contact: Kirsten Kulik
Marketing Director
JOURNEYS International
800-255-8735
Fax: 734-665-2945

http://www.journeys.travel

We have no special insight into the duration of the present leadership crisis in Egypt, but we are confident that our local guides, operators and representatives will again be hosting clients as soon as it is safe and attractive to do so.  When you are comfortable and ready to visit Egypt, please give us a call we have a great and honorable staff ready to offer a spectacular experience.

Our programs in Morocco, Jordan and Israel continue to operate as planned and we anticipate that Tunisia will be safe and attractive very soon. Those of us who have traveled to destinations in the wake of dramatic events or shortly after shocks to local tourism, know that this is often a special opportunity.   The first foreign travelers back are always given a special welcome.  There are bargains in the markets and restaurants, no lines or hassles at immigration and tourist sites and  your choice of flights in and out.  We look forward to offering you that opportunity in Egypt soon. ww

It was wonderful to be back in Myanmar. This was my fourth visit to Burma so I had some sense of what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised by what we found upon arrival in Yangon.  There is a new airport with efficient immigration and customs. Changing money was easy. Everyone was predictably courteous. Nothing about this government encounter seems evil or authoritarian.  Surely, the Burmese are among the friendliest people in Asia.

We made a quick visit to the markets and monuments of Yangon and everyone in our group of five was especially impressed by the great golden Buddhist  pagoda of Shwedagon which was especially impressive at sunset. Our primary destination was the northernmost tip of Myanmar accessible by a long, two-stop flight via Mandalay .  The ATR-72 turboprop aircraft of Air Bagan was smooth and comfortable.  The farther north we flew the more extensive the forest became.    There are only about four flights per week to Putao and the good weather season is from October to April. Road access is possible in the dry season but the roads are rough and tortuous. The lack of traffic and modern buildings gave Putao a friendly village feeling.The Putao Trekking House where we stayed for three nights was an especially comfortable and hospitable base. Built according to local architectural style, but from beautiful local hardwoods, it offfers a rich, yet simple ambiance.

Our main objective was a trek to Ziyadam, the last village at the end of a trail that leads to the base of the Burmese Himalayas. Although we had to cross numerous streams on improvised stone and stick bridges, this was the dry season and there was no real  problem.,  One day required a 3,000 foot climb over Mt. Shangaung, but it felt like a privilege to hike through beautiful sub-tropical primary forest that separated friendly villages.  Our group of five Westerners encountered no other foreigners on the trail, but lots of interesting local travelers like the fellow at right.

This is a trip we plan to offer again next January  as the Trails of Himalayan Burma. I have created a Photo Gallery of the trip, and a visit to the Ngapali Beach area of coastal Myanmar. If you might be interested in this trip give us a call.

It is striking to us that expressions of appreciation, and observations of human generosity and kindness, come to us not just from our travelers but also from the guides and hosts on the other end.  It’s not just that we add to the financial well-being of the people and communities we visit, although of course this is vitally important; we also bring the gift of our openness to connection, our eagerness to learn, and our appetites for honest conversation.

In the midst of this season of giving, we remind ourselves that there are so many tangible and intangible ways to give as a traveler.

We give tangibly by…

• Tipping thoughtfully for good service
• Bargaining playfully but not to strike a hard deal
• Giving business grassroots operations
• Supporting the charitable projects of lodges and communities we visit
• Leaving behind usable clothing, books and equipment you will not need after your trip
• Visiting schools and donating supplies
• Offering friendly suggestions about improving locals’ operations
• Encouraging friends and family to support causes that inspired you during your travels
• Making a contribution to the most important local institution in the community you visit

And we give intangibly by…

• Offering warm greetings and words of appreciation to hosts
• Demonstrating openness to new perspectives
• Being courteous to everyone we meet
• Taking time to talk and discuss with local professional peers about common interests
• Sharing news about the world and information about our country with people in autocratic countries with no access to these stories
• Indulging school children (and others) in their efforts to practice English
• Supporting ideas of conservation, and non-consumptive appreciation of nature and traditional culture
• Listening attentively to the ideas of locals and of fellow travelers, and following up with thoughtful questions
• Being a model of tolerance toward all people and religions
• Sharing stories of our own lives, family and work with guides and hosts
• Being respectful of local cultures by learning about local customs in advance of arrival, then honing this knowledge throughout the trip
• Letting guides and hosts see their worlds through our eyes by articulating our responses to new experiences
• Retelling the stories of our trip after we return home, to raise global awareness of the joys and challenges of lives in all different places

In this season of giving, please help us build these lists.  Share with us the ways in which you have seen the gifts of travel.  This spirit of giving can carry us from this season into a year of generosity and gratitude.

We, as travelers still have this fundamental problem of the carbon profligacy of mechanized travel.  Ted Turner does not bicycle between and around his many far flung ranches.  Richard Branson,  is not yet running his commercial jet fleets on biofuel or hydrogen.  I guess they justify their outsized personal  carbon footprints by  the compensatory effects of their political advocacy that other people (families, cultures, nations) not create such large carbon footprints. It is kind of like using a megaphone to urge a crowd to keep the peace by turning down the volume on their ipod headphones.
Everyone  I have ever met in the nature-eco-adventure travel industry is aware of the problem of global warming and would like to participate in an effective solution, if they can afford it and if it is presented convincingly.  At least we are beyond denial and open to ideas.  As far as I can tell we are still lacking in truly effective good ideas and especially lacking in an estimate of the cost.   Adventure travel may be less damaging to the global climate than some other types of travel, but we should be cautious in suggesting we are more a part of the solution than part of the problem.

This week international leaders and environmental ministers gathered in St. Petersburg, Russia, to discuss dramatic declines in wild tiger populations across Asia. Tigers have been exterminated from most of their range which once stretched from the Mediterranean to Siberia, Korea and Bali. Now your best chance to see a tiger in the wild is in one of the nature reserves or national parks of India or Nepal. Even here the animals are still under threat from illegal hunters seeking their skins, reputed medicinal body parts, or as illegal pets.  According to the NY Times report or the meeeting, saving the tiger, an animal associated with royalty, fierceness and solitary has a special appeal for leaders like Vladmir Putin who is front and center in the political imagery of tiger conservation. Even the much disparaged military junta of Myanmar is behind the effort and has created the largest tiger reserve on earth. We visit this sanctuary on the JOURNEYS Tiger Trails of Northern Burma, a trip I will be leading next January. It is exceptionally rare to actually see a wild tiger in Burma, Siberia, Sumatra, Bhutan or China where diminishing, secretive populations still exist.  Preserving tiger habitat is critical to the thousands of smaller, less-politically or esthetically charismatic species which are equally endangered by expanding human populations and natural habitat destruction.  We hope this international effort, supported even by the World Bank, will result in a reversal of the tiger trend toward extinction.  In the mean time, if you are eager to see or photograph a tiger in the wild while you still can, we suggest our Great India Tiger Safari or our India Great Cats Safari as the closest to a certain opportunity.

It may not be fair for residents of over developed nations to make judgments about how other countries should shun modern technologies and conveniences. If nothing else the message you might take from these events is that if you have not seen and experienced the wonders of Bhutan personally, you should visit soon. We can help.